Milan is faster, grittier, and more surprising than most visitors expect. It has Leonardo da Vinci's canal locks, a chapel decorated entirely in human bones, and flamingos in a private garden in the city centre. It also has the best aperitivo on earth. This is the guide for all of it.
First, Some Recalibration
Milan is not the Italy you were expecting. That's exactly the point.
People arrive in Milan from Florence or Rome and feel the gear change immediately. The pace is faster. The aesthetic is cooler. The streets are wider, the buildings more modern, the energy more purposeful. It does not have the layered medieval intimacy of those cities, and it makes no effort to pretend otherwise. Milan has always been Italy's most European city — its economic engine, its fashion capital, its publishing and media hub — and it wears that identity without apology.
The mistake is to let that surface reading stop there. Beneath the fashion weeks and the finance is a city of extraordinary depth: some of the finest art in the country, a canal network designed by Leonardo da Vinci, a neighbourhood culture that produces the best aperitivo tradition in Italy, and enough genuinely strange historical facts to fill an evening's conversation. Milan rewards people who stay longer than they planned and walk further than the guidebook suggested.
It is also, by international standards, a very liveable city. The metro is clean and reliable. The food is excellent across a wide range of prices. The design sense that permeates Milanese life — in the architecture, the interiors, the way people dress on an ordinary Tuesday — is a genuine aesthetic pleasure to be around. Come for a few days and expect to leave understanding why people who move here for a year tend to stay for a decade.
Before You Go: A Checklist for Preparation
- Travel Documents: Ensure your passport is valid for at least six months beyond your travel dates. Italy is part of the Schengen Area, so check if you need a visa.
- Currency: The Euro (€) is Italy’s official currency. Credit cards are widely accepted, but it’s wise to carry cash for smaller purchases or local markets.
- Attire: Pack versatile pieces that reflect Milan’s effortlessly chic style—think tailored blazers, neutral sweaters, and comfortable yet stylish walking shoes. Don’t forget evening wear for fine dining or theater outings.
- Reservations: Book tickets for popular attractions like The Last Supper or guided tours of the Duomo in advance to avoid disappointment.
- Language: Italian is the official language, but English is commonly spoken in tourist areas.
Arriving in Milan: What You Need to Know
- Airport Transfers: Milan has two main airports—Malpensa (MXP) and Linate (LIN). Malpensa is about 45 minutes from the city center by train or car, while Linate is closer at just 20 minutes away.
- Use the Malpensa Express train for a convenient transfer to Milano Centrale station.
- Taxis or private transfers offer door-to-door service but can be more expensive.
- Check-In Essentials: Whether staying at Hotel Principe di Savoia (a symbol of timeless elegance) or a boutique retreat in Brera, ensure your accommodation offers central access to key landmarks.
- Local SIM Cards: Consider purchasing a local SIM card or portable Wi-Fi device to stay connected without exorbitant roaming fees.
Things Worth Knowing
The facts about Milan that most visitors never find out.
There Are Flamingos in the Fashion District
On Via dei Cappuccini, in the heart of the Quadrilatero della Moda, is the Palazzo Invernizzi — a private residence behind wrought-iron gates. Peer through and you will find, in the garden, a flock of flamingos. They have been there since the 1950s when the Invernizzi family introduced them to the grounds. They remain entirely private, entirely real, and entirely unexpected in the middle of one of Europe's most densely urban city centres.
Milan Once Had 90 Kilometres of Canals
Venice's canals are famous. Milan's were more extensive. At their peak, the Navigli system stretched for 90 kilometres through the city — an extraordinary feat of medieval and Renaissance engineering connecting Milan to the lakes, the rivers, and ultimately to the sea. The marble used to build the Duomo was transported by barge from the Candoglia quarry on Lake Maggiore. In the 20th century, most of the inner canals were filled in to make roads. The Naviglio Grande and Naviglio Pavese survive.
Leonardo da Vinci Designed the Canal Locks
In 1482, a 30-year-old Leonardo arrived at the court of Ludovico Sforza in Milan. He spent 17 years here and used much of that time on engineering problems. Chief among them was the canal system. The miter lock — the pivoting gate that allows canals to navigate changes in elevation — was perfected by Leonardo here; the original sketch is in the Codex Atlanticus. A version of his design is used in canal locks worldwide, including the Panama Canal.
A Chapel Near the Duomo Is Made Of Human Bones
A ten-minute walk from the cathedral, in Piazza Santo Stefano, is the Church of San Bernardino alle Ossa. Inside, through a corridor to the right of the entrance, is an ossuary chapel whose walls, ceiling, pillars and doorframes are entirely covered in the bones and skulls of several thousand people, arranged in intricate decorative patterns. It originated in the 13th century when a nearby hospital cemetery ran out of space. The King of Portugal visited in 1738 and was so impressed he had an exact copy built in Évora. Entry is free.
No Building May Legally Be Taller Than the Madonnina
Atop the Duomo's highest spire at 108.5 metres stands the Madonnina — a gilded copper statue of the Virgin Mary that has watched over Milan since 1774. By longstanding tradition, no building may be taller. When Gio Ponti's Pirelli Tower was completed in the late 1950s at 127 metres, a small replica of the Madonnina was placed on its roof to preserve the tradition. When the Palazzo Lombardia surpassed that at 161 metres, another replica went on top. The skyline has grown; the Madonnina technically remains its highest point.
People Spin on the Bull for Good Luck
The mosaic floor of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II — Italy's oldest shopping mall, built in 1877 — bears the crests of four Italian cities at its centre. Turin's symbol is a bull. The tradition of spinning on the bull's genitals with your heel for luck is so well-established that a significant depression has been worn into the original marble. There is often a small queue. Whether the luck works is disputed. The depression in the floor is not.
A Giant Middle Finger Faces the Stock Exchange
In Piazza degli Affari, directly in front of the Milan Stock Exchange, stands L.O.V.E — a four-metre marble sculpture by Maurizio Cattelan of a hand with all fingers removed except the middle one, directed squarely at the building behind it. Installed in 2010 as a temporary piece, it remains. The official title stands for Libertà, Odio, Vendetta, Eternità. The stock exchange management, reportedly, did not find it funny. Locals call it Il Dito — The Finger.
Leonardo's Vineyard Is Still Growing
In 1498, Ludovico Sforza gave Leonardo da Vinci a vineyard adjacent to Santa Maria delle Grazie — the church containing The Last Supper. Leonardo lived next to his vines for several years. The vineyard was damaged in WWII bombing; DNA analysis of surviving roots eventually identified the original grape variety, which was replanted. The Vigna di Leonardo is now open to visitors, fifteen minutes from the Duomo, and wine from it is occasionally released in extremely limited quantities.
The One THing You Must Book In Advance
The Last Supper is not what you expect. Which is why it matters.
Leonardo da Vinci's Ultima Cena is painted directly onto the plaster wall of the refectory of Santa Maria delle Grazie. It is not a fresco — Leonardo used an experimental dry tempera technique that allowed him to make corrections and adjustments as he worked, which a true fresco would not permit. The technique also meant the painting began deteriorating almost immediately after he finished it in 1498. What you see today is the result of twenty years of restoration and is genuinely extraordinary: the scale, the specificity of each apostle's reaction, the way the painted room appears to continue the real one in an unbroken perspective.
You are allowed fifteen minutes inside. The room holds about 25 people at a time, passes through a humidity-controlled airlock, and runs strictly to a timed schedule. Without a pre-booked ticket, you will not get in — slots book out months in advance. Book before you book your flights. The official site is cenacolovinciano.vivaticket.it. It is worth whatever the booking requires.
"The painting survived Napoleon's troops using the refectory as a stable, a 1943 bombing that destroyed the walls around it while leaving it intact, and five centuries of humidity and neglect. Fifteen minutes in that room is a specific kind of quiet."
Where to Spend Your Time
Six neighborhoods. Six entirely different cities.
Milan is a city of distinct neighbourhoods, and which ones you spend time in matters more here than in more compact Italian cities. The centre is walkable but the interesting parts are spread across a larger radius than Rome or Florence.
- Centro Storico & Duomo — The Duomo, the Galleria, La Scala, the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana (which holds Leonardo's Codex Atlanticus, the Raphael cartoon for the School of Athens, and Caravaggio's Basket of Fruit — the first Italian still-life painting). The Castello Sforzesco is here too, with Michelangelo's final sculpture, the Rondanini Pietà, displayed in an appropriately contemplative room on its own. This is where visitors spend most of their time and where locals go almost never.
- Brera — The most beautiful neighbourhood in Milan: narrow streets, ivy-covered walls, the Pinacoteca di Brera (one of the finest painting collections in Italy), excellent restaurants, and the right kind of bars for aperitivo if you want a quieter evening. It feels like a village that got absorbed into a large city and refused to change its character.
- Navigli — The canal district, south-west of the centre. By day: vintage shops, small galleries, the antiques market on the last Sunday of each month on the Naviglio Grande. By evening: one of the great aperitivo scenes in Europe, with bars lining the canals, people standing at the water's edge with spritzes, and energy that starts around 6pm and builds well into the night. Younger and louder than Brera — and for certain evenings, exactly right.
- Isola — Once cut off from the city by a railway line (hence the name), now one of Milan's most creative neighbourhoods. The Bosco Verticale — the vertical forest building with trees growing on every balcony — is here. The streets around it have good independent restaurants, coffee shops, and the kind of organic neighbourhood energy that tourist-heavy areas lose.
- Porta Romana & Porta Venezia — Two residential neighbourhoods that function as the city's quieter, more authentic alternatives to the tourist centre. Porta Romana has good local trattorias and a relaxed pace. Porta Venezia is more diverse and international, home to some of Milan's best immigrant-influenced cooking and one of its most mixed populations.
- Porta Nuova & Garibaldi — The Milan of the near future: gleaming towers, the Bosco Verticale, the Unicredit Tower, the striking Feltrinelli Foundation building. Less warm than the above but worth a walk to understand what the city is becoming, and to see the architectural contrast between this and the medieval streets twenty minutes away.
Places Worth Finding
Beyond the Duomo. The Milan that stays with you.
- San Bernardino alle Ossa (Piazza Santo Stefano | Free | Near Duomo) — The bone chapel. A corridor to the right of the church entrance leads to a room whose walls, ceiling, pillars and doorframes are decorated with the bones and skulls of thousands of Milanese, arranged in intricate patterns. A Baroque fresco by Sebastiano Ricci covers the ceiling. Free to enter, almost never crowded, and one of the most genuinely unusual spaces in Italy. Weekday mornings are quietest.
- Pinacoteca Ambrosiana (Piazza Pio XI | Near Duomo) — The collection that holds Leonardo's Codex Atlanticus — the largest surviving collection of his drawings in the world — alongside Raphael's full-scale cartoon for the School of Athens fresco and Caravaggio's Basket of Fruit, the earliest Italian still-life painting. Consistently quieter than the Brera and wildly undervisited relative to its importance. Allow two hours.
- Cimitero Monumentale (Piazzale Cimitero Monumentale | Free) — More than 60 acres of open-air museum: 15,000 sculptures, mausoleums, temples and obelisks commissioned by Milan's elite families over two centuries. Architectural styles from Byzantine to Modernist to Art Nouveau, all within a working cemetery. The Famedio — the hall of fame — contains the tombs of Alessandro Manzoni and Carlo Porta. One of the most remarkable spaces in the city, and free.
- Vigna di Leonardo (Via Della Moscova | Near Santa Maria Delle Grazie) — Leonardo's vineyard, replanted from DNA analysis of roots that survived WWII bombing. A quiet garden adjacent to the church containing The Last Supper, explaining the relationship between Leonardo's living and working life in Milan. Book in advance — the combination ticket with the Casa degli Atellani gives valuable context to the whole area.
- Museo Bagatti Valsecchi (Via Gesù | Brera) — A 19th-century mansion in the fashion district preserved as two aristocratic brothers designed it — as a living museum of Renaissance life, where genuine antiques and high-quality reproductions were combined so seamlessly that experts couldn't always tell them apart. The rooms feel inhabited rather than displayed. One of the most interesting interiors in Milan, and almost nobody visits it.
- The Conca dell'Incoronata (Via San Marco | Near Brera) — The only surviving above-ground section of Leonardo's canal system in the city centre — a 15th-century navigational lock restored in 2020, now a small public garden. The lock mechanism Leonardo improved here was the prototype for canal engineering that spread across the world. Most people walk past without knowing what they're looking at. A sign explains it; the five minutes it takes changes how you see the whole city.
- Palazzo Invernizzi Flamingos (Via Dei Cappuccini | Fashion District) — Peer through the wrought-iron gates of this private palazzo near Via della Spiga and count the flamingos. They live in a private garden in the middle of the Quadrilatero della Moda, as they have since the 1950s. No admission, no ticket, no tour. Best discovered by walking rather than being directed there — the surprise is part of the point.
- Naviglio Grande on Sunday Morning (Navigli | Last Sunday of the Month) — On the last Sunday of each month, the Naviglio Grande hosts one of the largest antiques and vintage markets in northern Italy, stretching for several kilometres along the canal. Furniture, books, jewellery, ceramics, prints, records — quality varies but scale is extraordinary. Come before 10am for the best finds. The same canal-side bars that are loud on Friday nights are quiet and perfect for a slow Sunday breakfast.
The Thing Milan Does better Than Anywhere
Aperitivo is not a drink. It is an institution.
The aperitivo was invented in Turin, but Milan perfected it and made it a civic practice. Between 6pm and 9pm, the city collectively exhales. Offices empty, bars fill, and for three hours the Milanese — who are industrious and driven in a way that distinguishes them from the rest of Italy — put the working day down and pick up a drink.
The mechanics are simple: you pay for a drink and the bar provides food alongside it. The food ranges from olives and crisps at the basic end, to a full spread of hot dishes, pasta, sandwiches, and whatever the kitchen made that afternoon. At the better bars, the aperitivo genuinely functions as dinner. At the very best ones, you will eat better from the buffer than from most sit-down restaurants nearby.
The right neighbourhood depends on the evening. Navigli is the loudest and youngest — canal-side, high-energy, people standing outside until late. Brera is more contained and better for conversation, with wine bars and ivy-covered terraces. Porta Romana is the locals' choice: less crowded, more regular, the kind of bar where the bartender knows what you want. Isola is creative and slightly scruffier, with a young international crowd and cocktail lists that reflect it.
"The Negroni is the canonical order. Equal parts gin, Campari and sweet vermouth, stirred over ice, orange peel. Order one at 6:30pm in any decent bar in Brera or Navigli. That is the beginning of a Milanese evening."
Where to Eat
Risotto, ossobuco, cotoletta - and the trattoria that changes its menu daily.
Milanese food is often underestimated in a country where Naples has the pizza and Bologna has the pasta. The canonical dishes here are risotto alla Milanese (saffron, bone marrow, butter — rich, slightly mineral, nothing like risotto served outside Lombardy), ossobuco (braised veal shank with gremolata), and cotoletta alla Milanese (a breaded veal cutlet, properly made with the bone in, fried in clarified butter until the exterior is just verging on too dark). These are not humble dishes. The right place to eat them is a trattoria that has been making them for decades.
- Trippa (Offal & Market Cooking | Porta Romana): Milan's most talked-about trattoria. Chef Diego Rossi changes the menu daily based on what the market has, with a focus on offal — tripe, kidneys, liver, heart, sweetbreads — treated with unfussy respect. Non-adventurous diners and vegetarians are accommodated. The atmosphere, cultivated by front-of-house partner Pietro Caroli, is one of the warmest in the city. Reservations open on the first of each month for the following month at noon. Set an alarm. They disappear immediately.
- Trattoria Milanese (Old-School Lombard | Centro Storico): Finding an unreconstructed trattoria in central Milan is harder than it sounds. This one has resisted: senior, occasionally gruff staff, a long menu of Lombard classics — vitello tonnato, risotto, cotoletta, braised meats — and a clientele that is overwhelmingly local and overwhelmingly male at lunch. Not glossy. Exactly right.
- Trattoria della Pesa (Classic Milanese | Brera | Since 1880): One of the oldest restaurants in Milan, in continuous operation since 1880. Dark wood, white tablecloths, walls covered in photographs. The menu is Lombard and serious — ossobuco, risotto alla Milanese, cassoeula (pork and cabbage, winter only), excellent liver and sage. The kind of place that makes other Italian cities' food scenes feel slightly improvised by comparison.
- Ratanà (Risotto Specialist | Porta Nuova): A Milanese institution that takes risotto alla Milanese with the seriousness it deserves — thirty minutes of stirring, bone marrow, real saffron, a final incorporation of cold butter that gives it its characteristic wave when tipped onto the plate. The kind of restaurant that reminds you why Milanese cooking, done properly, is one of the great regional cuisines of Italy. Book ahead for lunch and dinner.
- Marchesi 1824 (Historic Pasticceria | Galleria Vittorio Emanuele): On the second floor of the Galleria, above the Prada store, reached by a staircase to the left of the elevators. Green velvet chairs, marble tops, cherry wood counters, and pastries that make most other cafés seem to be trying less hard. Come for a morning coffee and a cornetto before the Galleria fills with tourists. The room is extraordinary and the pasticceria is among the best in Milan.
- The Michetta Sandwich (Street Food | Any Neighborhood | Lunch): The bread of Milan: a hollow, crisp, star-shaped roll that is unlike anything else in Italy. Stuffed with braised meats, or salame and provolone, or whatever the rosticceria has that morning. Find a good alimentari in whichever neighbourhood you're walking through. Eat it immediately. It doesn't travel well and it doesn't need to — it's a standing-up, mid-walk kind of meal, which is the correct way to eat in Milan when the sun is out.
- Walk the Isola Streets at 7 PM (Modern Neighborhood Cooking | Isola & Surrounds): Isola has developed one of the best concentrations of non-tourist restaurants in the city — independents with no particular agenda beyond cooking well and keeping their regulars. Walk the streets around the Bosco Verticale in the early evening and follow your nose. The quality-to-crowd ratio is better here than almost anywhere else in Milan. Anything without an English menu in the window is usually a good start.
- Buy Real Panettone (December Only | Non-Negotiable): Panettone was invented in Milan and the artisan versions made here are nothing like the factory-produced domes sold everywhere else. The real thing — from Pasticceria Cova, or Marchesi, or Peck on Via Spadari — is moist, rich with butter and eggs, studded with candied fruit worth eating. If you visit in December, bring one home. If you visit any other time, find a slice in a good café and understand what it's actually supposed to be.
Before You Arrive
Everything practical, plainly told
- Getting There: Two main airports: Malpensa (MXP, 50km north-west, most international flights) and Linate (LIN, 8km east, European destinations). The Malpensa Express train connects to Central Station and Cadorna in about 50 minutes. Linate is 25 minutes by bus or taxi. Budget airlines use Bergamo Orio al Serio (BGY), 50 minutes by bus. High-speed trains connect Milan to Venice (2hrs20), Florence (1hr40), Rome (3hrs) and Turin (1hr).
- Getting Around: The metro is clean, fast, and covers most of what you need — lines M1 (red), M2 (green), M3 (yellow) and M4 (blue) between them reach every major neighbourhood. Trams run on many central streets. Taxis are plentiful. Walk between neighbourhoods when possible — the city reveals itself on foot in ways public transport doesn't.
- Book In Advance: The Last Supper is the non-negotiable pre-booking — cenacolovinciano.vivaticket.it, months ahead in peak season. Trippa restaurant: reservations open on the 1st of each month at noon for the following month. La Scala performances book early; check teatroallascala.org.
- Best Time To Visit: April to June and September to October. July and August see many Milanese leave and some restaurants close. January is men's Fashion Week, February is women's — prices spike. The Christmas period is excellent. Avoid Design Week (April, Salone del Mobile) unless you're going specifically for it — the city is extremely full and prices are very high.
- How Long To Stay: Two days for major highlights. Four days to include Navigli properly, Isola, the Cimitero Monumentale, the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, and enough aperitivo evenings to understand the city. Add days for: Lake Como (1hr by train to Varenna — not Como town), Bergamo's upper city (50 min, unmissable), Pavia (30 min, the Certosa monastery is extraordinary).
- Where To Stay: Brera for atmosphere and central access. Navigli for nightlife proximity (accept the noise or choose a side street). Isola for a local feel and easy metro access. The Central Station area is convenient but uninspiring. Avoid anything marketed primarily on proximity to the Duomo — the most interesting hotels are rarely the closest to it.
- Where To Eat: Risotto alla Milanese (saffron, bone marrow), ossobuco, cotoletta alla Milanese, cassoeula (winter only, pork and cabbage), michetta sandwiches, the aperitivo buffet, real panettone in December. Avoid any restaurant with photographs of food on the menu or aggressive door-staff near the Duomo.
Things Worth Knowing
The notes that belong in no other section.
- Book The Last Supper before you book your flights: This is not an exaggeration. The Cenacolo Vinciano holds 25 people per 15-minute slot, slots book months ahead in summer, and there is no mechanism for walk-ins. Official site: cenacolovinciano.vivaticket.it. Do this first, before anything else.
- The aperitivo can be dinner. Plan accordingly: At the better Milanese bars, the food served alongside a drink from 6–9pm is substantial enough that you won't need to eat afterwards. Budget €12–18 per drink depending on the neighbourhood. Eat generously from the spread. This is the most economical and most pleasurable way to eat well in Milan.
- Walk into the countryards: Milanese buildings are built around internal cortili — courtyards invisible from the street. Many are semi-public. The Università Statale has extraordinary Gothic and Renaissance courtyards a ten-minute walk from the Duomo. The fashion district has several palazzo courtyards that most people never enter. If a door is unlocked and the entrance looks like it leads somewhere, try it.
- The Pinacoteca di Brera is more important than its visitor numbers suggest: Mantegna's Dead Christ alone is worth an hour. Raphael's Betrothal of the Virgin. Caravaggio's Supper at Emmaus. One of the greatest painting collections in Italy, consistently less crowded than the Uffizi or the Vatican Museums. Book in advance, but expect no queue. Stay for aperitivo in the neighbourhood after.
- Take a tram when you have time: Milan's historic tram network runs on some of the most interesting routes in the city — along the canals, through the fashion district, past the Duomo. Slower than the metro, but the city looks different from street level. Take tram 1 or tram 9 on an afternoon when you're not in a hurry.
- Go to Bergamo for a day: 50 minutes by train from Central Station. The Città Alta — the upper town, reached by funicular — is one of the most perfectly preserved medieval city centres in Italy. Venetian walls, Romanesque churches, the Accademia Carrara (a small art museum of surprising quality), and a completely different pace from Milan. Come back for aperitivo in Navigli in the evening. It is a very good day.
- Go to the bone chapel: San Bernardino alle Ossa is ten minutes from the Duomo, free to enter, almost never mentioned in standard tourist itineraries, and one of the most genuinely strange and memorable spaces in Italy. Weekday mornings are quietest. You will almost certainly be alone in the ossuary. That is not a reason not to go; it is an argument for going.
- Don't judge Milan in the first few hours: The city opens slowly. The first afternoon — especially if you arrive near the Duomo and the Galleria — is the least representative version of it. The second day, when you've figured out the tram, found a bar in Brera, eaten a michetta standing up in a side street, and realised that the pace you initially found cold is actually just efficient — that's when Milan starts to make sense.
Why This City
What Milan actually is
Milan is not the Italy of postcards. It has no Colosseum, no gondolas, no hillside vineyards visible from the city centre. What it has is a different kind of weight: the weight of a city that has been the engine of Italian economic and cultural life for centuries, that housed Leonardo da Vinci and Giuseppe Verdi and Giorgio Armani and Gianni Versace and Alessandro Manzoni, and that wears all of this with a characteristic Milanese indifference to what outsiders think.
The fashion is real and the finance is real and the design culture is real — these are not performances put on for visitors, they are the actual texture of how the city lives. But so is the aperitivo, and the risotto made with bone marrow, and the 15th-century canal lock that Leonardo improved on a sketch that lives in the Codex Atlanticus, and the flamingos in the palazzo garden, and the bone chapel a ten-minute walk from the most famous cathedral in Italy.
"Milan is the Italian city that most rewards the second day, the third neighbourhood, the aperitivo that becomes dinner, the morning walk through a courtyard you pushed open without knowing what was inside."
The city asks more of you than Rome or Florence, in the sense that it doesn't organise itself around visitors' expectations. The great things are there but they require some navigation. The best meals are not the most central. The most beautiful neighbourhoods are not the most photographed. The things worth knowing about its history are not on the first page of the guidebook.
That's the deal Milan offers: less hand-holding, more reward. A city that has been industrious and ambitious for a very long time, that contains extraordinary things in unlikely places, and that will give you a better evening than you planned if you arrive with your expectations open and your appetite ready. Order a Negroni. Find the flamingos. Go to the bone chapel. Spin on the bull. Stay for the aperitivo and let it become dinner.
That is the correct approach to Milan.
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